Bengalis celebrate Durga Puja, a ten day festival symbolizing the triumph of good over evil, around the autumnal equinox each year. Durga Puja commemorates when Goddess Durga, the face of purity, strength, beauty, and power, defeats the almighty Mashishashura, the evilest of all demons. In Kolkata, this event proves to be an epic and joyous time every year. No other time can young adolescents roam the streets of Kolkata all hours of the night, safely surrounded by the rest of the community singing and dancing along with them. The festive crowds, bright colors, fireworks, dancing, merriment, the feasting -- it all brings a smile to my face and my heart. How beautiful that such a holiday can bring together so many people from all over the world.
As the story goes, Maa Durga visits her parents every year for five days starting on the sixth day of the festival, or Shashti. During this time, she is adorned with flowers and lovingly offered food, drink, and entertainment. Everyone shows up in their best, most colorful and intricately designed saris and kurta pajama sets, and women show off fancy new earrings and other accessories. Friends and family members reunite after many months or years apart and exchange generous gifts. To prepare for one last feast before Durga returns home, the community sacrifices a goat on the ninth day (Mahanavami). After hours of marinating and stewing the goat, family and friends gather communally to enjoy a lavish meal, perhaps one of the last before having to return to the humdrum of a routine work life. Growing up in Houston, the priest sacrificed a sugar cane branch, in lieu of a goat, to offer to the goddess on the ninth day.
...and then, of course, the feasting begins!!
I've mentioned a time or two that my mother shows her love through cooking, and growing up, she would often make us goat curry for special occasions. This was an extensive process, as you can imagine. Her fresh supply of goat required a long drive to a family-owned butcher shop called Fyza's, which sadly no longer exists. She and my father would haul home several pounds of goat, which was then cut, cleaned, and stored for future use. When it came time, the meat was marinated and stewed for a whole day, tickling our senses. Hints of garlic, onion, tomatoes, garam masala, and soft, gamey goat would permeate the entire house as it cooked on the stove for several hours. While visiting Houston, my mother used to make pounds of goat curry, which she subsequently froze and packed into a suitcase for me to carry back to Atlanta. "You don't get good food out there. You don't have time to cook," she'd say. I think she was well aware that neither was true, but this was how she showed her love. Plus, I never turn down a good batch of goat curry, or my mother's cooking for that matter, let's be honest.
I've only made goat curry twice now and it's largely because I don't know where to get fresh goat in Atlanta. I really haven't been impressed with any of the butchers I've been to around here (suggestions welcome, folks). The last time I was in Houston a few months ago, though, I jumped at the opportunity to take a few pounds of goat back to Atlanta so I could make a pot of goat curry for my husband and myself to celebrate Durga Puja. (Don't worry, the meat was frozen for the two hour flight, so it stayed fresh.)
Since I was going for a traditional Bengali dinner, I also whipped up some khichuri (a comforting mix of rice, moong dal, and spices with a porridge-like consistency), potol bhaja (fried pointed gourd), and tandoori chchana (tandoori-flavored blocks of cheese).
Luckily, it was all a success! And, the goat curry tasted just how my mother makes it -- I was pretty pleased with myself, I must say.
Here's the recipe for the goat curry below:
Ingredients:
-A few cloves of garlic
-1 medium-sized onion (I prefer red or yellow)
-Small cuts of goat (preferably the leg of a younger goat), maybe a few pounds
-1 tbsp turmeric
-1 tbsp garam masala (ground cloves, cinnamon, cardamom - I usually use a coffee grinder to this)
-Plain yogurt
-Fresh ginger root
-1 large tomato
-1 green papaya, peeled, cubed into 2-3 inch blocks
-Salt, pepper to taste
-1 tsp sugar
Marinade:
-Mix enough yogurt to generously coat the goat pieces with roughly chopped tomatoes, onion, and garlic, and add to a blender or food processor.
-Add salt, pepper (I use whole peppercorns for a bit of a kick), 1 tbsp of turmeric, and 1 tsp of sugar to the mixture and blend until smooth.
-Marinate the meat in the blended mixture. It's nice to do this for at least a few hours.
Preparation:
-Toast the garam masala in a large pot (large enough to hold all of the meat plus more) until you smell the fragrant aroma of the spices (usually about a minute or less)
-Add the marinated goat, cover the pot, and cook on medium-high heat until the mixture starts bubbling and the meat is no longer raw. You should notice more significantly more liquid in the pot after a while from the tomatoes and yogurt.
-Add a generous amount (maybe a handful?) of fresh, grated ginger and the green papaya cubes
-Add more water if you want the stew to be more "soupy" (optional).
-Cover again and let simmer for 3-5 hours, until the meat has softened.
*Note: If your meat is a little older and/or tougher, you may want to cook it the pressure cooker prior to preparing the stew. This ensures the meat is soft and tender.
*Note 2: Some of you might be cringing because there are no potatoes in this recipe. I actually prefer goat preparations without potatoes, but with lots of "kaacha pepe" (green papaya). It tenderizes the meat so well, melts into the stew, and makes the dish a little healthier.
As the story goes, Maa Durga visits her parents every year for five days starting on the sixth day of the festival, or Shashti. During this time, she is adorned with flowers and lovingly offered food, drink, and entertainment. Everyone shows up in their best, most colorful and intricately designed saris and kurta pajama sets, and women show off fancy new earrings and other accessories. Friends and family members reunite after many months or years apart and exchange generous gifts. To prepare for one last feast before Durga returns home, the community sacrifices a goat on the ninth day (Mahanavami). After hours of marinating and stewing the goat, family and friends gather communally to enjoy a lavish meal, perhaps one of the last before having to return to the humdrum of a routine work life. Growing up in Houston, the priest sacrificed a sugar cane branch, in lieu of a goat, to offer to the goddess on the ninth day.
...and then, of course, the feasting begins!!
I've mentioned a time or two that my mother shows her love through cooking, and growing up, she would often make us goat curry for special occasions. This was an extensive process, as you can imagine. Her fresh supply of goat required a long drive to a family-owned butcher shop called Fyza's, which sadly no longer exists. She and my father would haul home several pounds of goat, which was then cut, cleaned, and stored for future use. When it came time, the meat was marinated and stewed for a whole day, tickling our senses. Hints of garlic, onion, tomatoes, garam masala, and soft, gamey goat would permeate the entire house as it cooked on the stove for several hours. While visiting Houston, my mother used to make pounds of goat curry, which she subsequently froze and packed into a suitcase for me to carry back to Atlanta. "You don't get good food out there. You don't have time to cook," she'd say. I think she was well aware that neither was true, but this was how she showed her love. Plus, I never turn down a good batch of goat curry, or my mother's cooking for that matter, let's be honest.
I've only made goat curry twice now and it's largely because I don't know where to get fresh goat in Atlanta. I really haven't been impressed with any of the butchers I've been to around here (suggestions welcome, folks). The last time I was in Houston a few months ago, though, I jumped at the opportunity to take a few pounds of goat back to Atlanta so I could make a pot of goat curry for my husband and myself to celebrate Durga Puja. (Don't worry, the meat was frozen for the two hour flight, so it stayed fresh.)
Since I was going for a traditional Bengali dinner, I also whipped up some khichuri (a comforting mix of rice, moong dal, and spices with a porridge-like consistency), potol bhaja (fried pointed gourd), and tandoori chchana (tandoori-flavored blocks of cheese).
Luckily, it was all a success! And, the goat curry tasted just how my mother makes it -- I was pretty pleased with myself, I must say.
Here's the recipe for the goat curry below:
Ingredients:
-A few cloves of garlic
-1 medium-sized onion (I prefer red or yellow)
-Small cuts of goat (preferably the leg of a younger goat), maybe a few pounds
-1 tbsp turmeric
-1 tbsp garam masala (ground cloves, cinnamon, cardamom - I usually use a coffee grinder to this)
-Plain yogurt
-Fresh ginger root
-1 large tomato
-1 green papaya, peeled, cubed into 2-3 inch blocks
-Salt, pepper to taste
-1 tsp sugar
Marinade:
-Mix enough yogurt to generously coat the goat pieces with roughly chopped tomatoes, onion, and garlic, and add to a blender or food processor.
-Add salt, pepper (I use whole peppercorns for a bit of a kick), 1 tbsp of turmeric, and 1 tsp of sugar to the mixture and blend until smooth.
-Marinate the meat in the blended mixture. It's nice to do this for at least a few hours.
Preparation:
-Toast the garam masala in a large pot (large enough to hold all of the meat plus more) until you smell the fragrant aroma of the spices (usually about a minute or less)
-Add the marinated goat, cover the pot, and cook on medium-high heat until the mixture starts bubbling and the meat is no longer raw. You should notice more significantly more liquid in the pot after a while from the tomatoes and yogurt.
-Add a generous amount (maybe a handful?) of fresh, grated ginger and the green papaya cubes
-Add more water if you want the stew to be more "soupy" (optional).
-Cover again and let simmer for 3-5 hours, until the meat has softened.
*Note: If your meat is a little older and/or tougher, you may want to cook it the pressure cooker prior to preparing the stew. This ensures the meat is soft and tender.
*Note 2: Some of you might be cringing because there are no potatoes in this recipe. I actually prefer goat preparations without potatoes, but with lots of "kaacha pepe" (green papaya). It tenderizes the meat so well, melts into the stew, and makes the dish a little healthier.
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